WAARRRNNINNNGGG!!!!!!!!!!: THE CURRENT BATCHES OF THE CRAZYBEE BOARDS FROM HAPPYMODEL ARE TOTAL RUBBISH. THE FAILURE RATE EXCEEDS 60% ADVISED TO WAIT AND LET THINGS BLOW OVER BEFORE CONSIDERING USING SUCH ITEMS. The Beta boards have not been too reliable for me but now may be better albeit still a poor option. I don’t even know what to do about all this yet. China 🙁
The goal of this craft is to keep it super light. Yes you can load up 1106 motors and big honking quad blades with an 800mah 3S battery but you’re probably going to want a different frame and that quad is going to be louder, extremely fast and bordering unsafe. The point of this is lightweight, low noise, common low cost components, common 450-600mah whoop batteries, common whoop cameras, simple props, simple frame, AWESOME performance. The unique development has been the use of brushless whoop AIO boards that simplify the entire build.
Even though this design was intended to be a swap over from quads like the Mobula 7 or Trashcan, unfortunately no whoops out there make for a good swap experience. Yes they will work fine but optimal performance will require a custom build…as usual with everything in this hobby. If you want it good, you gotta do it yourself. :-/
– 1103 7,000 – 8,500kv recommended for 2S 450-1000mah
– 0804 10,000-13,000kv recommended for 1S 450-600mah
– Target less than 75g with 2S 450mah
– Target less than 90g with 2S 1000mah (~6-8min flight times)
– Target less than 50g with 1S 450mah (most public safe option)
– Maximum recommended AUW load for 65mm props is ~90g but less is better.
Construct the frame:
The frame comes with different sized M2 screws and standoffs. These are 10.9 hardness steel M2 screws but they are still really little. Be careful when tightening things. I’ve snapped the head off the screw trying to torque it around. The different sized screws are yours to decide what fits your build best. If you’re using a trashcan board and Vtx, you’ll want the longer screws because your stack will be taller. If the screws are too long for you, once installed, you can just snip the ends with a pair of large wire cutters if you like.
The following is for typical whoop style boards:
Select four appropriate screws for your build. Put them in the frame holes, thread the M2 locknuts over the entire screw length down to the bottom. Be careful not to over tighten these locknuts as you will need to spin the screw a little later to get the camera mount on.
The FC/AIO board will mount with the connectors and USB pointing up. This is opposite a whoop. Your FC board came with some rubber grommets. Maybe some grommets that are taller on one side. Put the grommets in the half circle mounting holes of the FC with the long side up as well. Now slip the whole FC/grommet complex over the screws that you’ve threaded onto the frame.
Screw on your motors:
If you’re using Mobula/Trashcan or any whoop motor, your wires will be too short to reach the connector on the FC from the motor mounting pad. That is what the micro racewire PCB’s are for. They are JUST BARELY LONG ENOUGH to fit your Mobula or Trashcan motors. BE CAREFUL when cutting, stripping and tinning your wires. If you do more than just cut the wires in half, you will not have enough wire to reach the connector even with the micro racewire.
Once you have your FC on and motors on and attached, you can just take the Bee Brain camera mount and thread it onto the appropriate screws. No nut or anything needed from here. I like to use one longer screw in the front because if I want more camera angle, I just thread the front of the camera mount high on the front screw. If I want a more shallow mount, I twist the screw down to pull the camera nose down.
Setting up your FC:
The following is written as if you have a fresh Crazybee F4 board. The Crazybee F3 works great but is a bit finicky with adjustments in Betaflight. When you try to remap motors it doesn’t always respond and sometimes freezes without saving the change….I’ll make a how-to on this if people really need it.
First off we’ll need to correct board orientation.
Go into the ‘configuration’ menu and set the ‘roll degrees’ to 180 under the ‘Board and Sensor Alignment’ box.
Before hitting the ‘save and reboot’ button, scroll down and check that the following are on:
– Air mode
– Anti gravity
– Dynamic filter
– You can also make sure prop rotatin is inverted up at the top left.
After hitting ‘save and reboot’, make sure the orientation is correct on the home screen. If not, you’ll need to go back into the configuratin menu and guess what rotations you need to apply in the ‘Board and Sensor Alignment’ box to get it correct.
If it is correct, under the ‘system configuration’ box of the ‘configuration’ menu, make sure it’s on 8k gyro rate and 8k loop rate (4k gyro rate for F3 processors). Now just turn OFF the Accelerometer before hitting the ‘save and reboot button’ again.
Now let’s go to the ‘Motor’ menu and check our motor orientation and motor rotations. In order to use this frame, you had to mount this board ‘upside down’. This means that your motor orientation is going to be incorrect and you can confirm that with the motor test. Please make sure props are OFF.
Remapping the motor output is very easy and I’ll included a video below in time, but if you’re using a fresh Crazybee board or one off a Mobula/Trashcan, you can go to the ‘CLI’ menu and probably just copy/paste the text below into the command line. Hit enter and it’ll reboot. If this doesn’t work, you’ll need to remap things manually. If things get all out of whack, you can always just reset all the settings on the main ‘Setup’ page.
Copy/paste the following: (this is a match for the Crazybee F4, NOT the F3)
resource MOTOR 1 none
resource MOTOR 2 none
resource MOTOR 3 none
resource MOTOR 4 none
resource MOTOR 1 B07
resource MOTOR 2 B08
resource MOTOR 3 B10
resource MOTOR 4 B06
The following is a comment which may help you:
|Hey, thanks for sharing all the information Maybe it helps:|
resource MOTOR 1 A03
resource MOTOR 2 A02
resource MOTOR 3 B08
resource MOTOR 4 B09
are the correct resources for a Crazybee F3 FRSky Board, 180 degrees roll mounted.
Now go back into the motor menu and check motor orientation.
Check the motor rotations too. If they are not spinning the correct way as designated by the motor map in the upper left, you’ll need to resolder the motor wires to flip the rotation. Just swap any of the two wires coming from each motor. (Not swap motors. Each motor has three wires. Swap any two of those wires….if you need help with this, you’ll probably need to ask someone for the rest too so I’m just gonna move on…)
Now just setup your controller Rx, OSD and rates as you normally would and you’re ready to go.
Here are my PID’s and rates that I use. Note that if you’re not using the same setup as me, these numbers won’t be accurate for you, however the tuning window is pretty huge so you can use this as a starting point.
So there are many ways to do this. I’m sure people will start printing various things but the most efficient solution that is the most secure for its weight is likely just a rubber band. I know, low tech…sometimes it’s better. It’s hard to explain the way I’ve strapped it up in the picture below, but this is a common method used by many micro builders and I like it. Works well and is secure.
If you’re going to be using an XT30 connector, this is pretty much required because the connector is strong enough not to let go of the battery. So if your battery goes flying, it’s not unlikely for the power lines to tug off the FC board and go flying with the battery.
Throttle Endpoint management:
Unfortunately these darn whoop AIO boards have fake Rx’s on board so the Rx performance totally sucks. This is a way you can at least make it more consistent and get some more range. Find a thin wire covered in silicone or a thin copper wire with an enamel coating. A 1/4 wavelength of 2.4GHz is 31.23mm and that’s how long the antenna it comes with should be. Cut your new wire to 62.46mm or as close to it as you can get. Replace the stock antenna with this new wire. Make sure the wire has no kinks in it while you’re flying. This mod makes the range just barely tolerable…
XT30 connector or JST/Mini Deans…:
Okay this one is frikin incredible and doesn’t even make sense! The stupid PH2 harness connector for running 2S is rubbish. By simply swapping to an actual 2S battery and using an XT30 connector, you will get a LOT more punch, a LOT more speed, and a LOT more flight time. That’s the part where it doesn’t make any sense! How can it give you more power AND more flight time!? Anyway, here’s the 2S battery you want. I’ve tried a couple others, this is definitely the best one: https://goo.gl/5F1mcb
One big thing to note. The XT30 connector is quite robust and kinda overkill for such a small quad. The connector does NOT pull loose easily enough if your battery goes flying in a crash. Instead, it’s very likely that the power lines will go flying off your FC as well. You will need to secure your power lines somehow or make absolutely certain your battery is very securely attached and will not go flying. Alternately, you can go with a JST connector but you may need to custom make your battery wires.
So we now know that the XT30 or just something better than the stock connectors are all but required. The next level up is to replace all the connectors and power lines. Swap out the main battery wires on the XT30 for 20awg wire. Then use pliers or tweezers with good grip to pull off the motor connectors plastic housing on the board. Then unsolder all the connector pins (this is a bit of a PITA). Directly solder your motor wires to the connector pads.
The XT30 gives you about 30-40% more performance overall. Swapping out the wires will give you another ~10-20% of added performance. I know these numbers sound nuts but give it a go yourself and you’ll see. The stock wires and connectors are fine but for optimal performance, it’ll take a bit more work.
Power floss mod:
Have you ever tried to rip floss? It’s incredibly strong. Use some to tie your new 20awg power lead to the rear standoff on the frame. Go ahead and show off your boyscout knot skills here. You’ll need to because floss is typically pretty slippery stuff and has a tendency to unravel knots. Especially the ‘Glide’ brand that’s made of PTFE.
Fun fact: There are surgical sutures made of PTFE. The look, feel, handle and knot just like the plasticy Glide brand floss. They’re both essentially identical. This particular suture is nice because debris don’t get caught in the thread and it’s generally bacterial colony resistant. It’s also a PITA to tie and keep shut and if you’re not careful, easy to tear right through various skin and mucosa tissue that you’re trying to suture together. There are many many different types of sutures that surgeons use for various tasks. Oh yeah, the PTFE suture stuff is several hundred times the price of just regular Glide floss….part of the reason why healthcare costs so much…